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For older models - Model LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV #8

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avitascmor opened this issue Feb 26, 2024 · 56 comments
Open

For older models - Model LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV #8

avitascmor opened this issue Feb 26, 2024 · 56 comments

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@avitascmor
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avitascmor commented Feb 26, 2024 •
edited by olm3ca
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Here is the technical manual

I believe this is one of the earlier models that requires a specific cable and controller.

This controller and cable set work and provide VGA, DVI and HDMI inputs for a Pi, Laptop, etc. I only replaced the LVDS cable and let the rest of the screen remain powered by design. I have yet to add the sound to the new board but the connections are there.

Here it is powered up with my laptop:

https://imgur.com/gallery/e8AqDlA

With MagicMirror2 running on a Pi4

https://i.imgur.com/MrhZ6gI.jpeg

Hope this helps everyone out!
@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented Feb 26, 2024

This is excellent news, thank you @avitascmor. I'll add this to the instructions today! Really great you found that controller board, thanks for sharing.

@olm3ca olm3ca mentioned this issue Feb 26, 2024
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@grhill424
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grhill424 commented Feb 29, 2024 •
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@avitascmor
I ordered the controller. I was wondering if you could send some pictures of the inside, how you hooked it up and drew power etc. Thanks so much in advance. I am excited to get this mirror working again.

@minihadroncollider
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@avitascmor
Great job setting this up! I would also appreciate some pictures or any guidance you have on setting up the LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV panel. I have a "Model One" with this panel and am waiting on delivery of the controller.

@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented Mar 7, 2024

I would assume you just need to connect LVDS and provide 12V power to the new board, using an external plug. It also looks like you can connect audio in a similar way to how I did it with the Vizio board. @grhill424 did you get yours working yet?

@avitascmor
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avitascmor commented Mar 7, 2024 via email

@grhill424
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@olm3ca i am still waiting on delivery of the controller. I will update once it arrives and I (hopefully) get it up and working.

@jeremy-fields
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I'm having trouble getting my LM40SAMFHD700AG25WV Mirror into initial setup mode. I can't find a button to place it into factory reset. Externally visible, I have a power input, ethernet, USB, microphones, and a power switch. Pics of my mirror. https://imgur.com/a/KXOlqAa
The only internal buttons I see are power and volume up/down, all on the scalar board. I did hold the power button down for ~10 and ~20 seconds. Both attempts resulted in the mirror rebooting after releasing the button. It then boots up and connects to my home wifi like before - it doesn't appear to have reset. I also tried holding each volume button ~10 seconds independently with no effect. Didn't try any combo button presses.

@avitascmor
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avitascmor commented Mar 19, 2024 via email

@jeremy-fields
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I've tried a few different combinations. A lot of the factory reset websites have you shutting it off first. I can't really turn it off. I can pull power, but shutting it down has been troublesome. I can reboot it and then try the Power + Volume Up combo which makes it switch to a "Update Complete!" display (see imgur link). It stays here until I reboot again. After that reboot it looks normal, and connects to my Wi-Fi as usual. I don't what software version was on there before but it's currently showing v.1.20.0. If I leave it in this post-boot state, the backlight eventually dims. I can't restore the backlight with the volume buttons, only another reboot. Holding the power button just reboots after about 15 seconds. Holding Power + Volume Down results in what appears to be a constant reboot state. The backlight comes on and off, I saw the Mirror logo pop up once very briefly, and then the backlight just continues to cycle. This continues until I release the buttons.
https://imgur.com/a/Vu8vdUI

@mweth
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mweth commented Mar 23, 2024

I bought this controller and am getting it setup. It seems like there should be a better way to add power to the controller and screen than using the old board.

@mweth mweth mentioned this issue Mar 23, 2024
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@avitascmor
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avitascmor commented Mar 23, 2024 via email

@mweth
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mweth commented Mar 24, 2024 •
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Here is the power supply for anyone smarter than me:

https://www.posturk.com/B2bDosyalar/Nesne/MP118TX.pdf

@jeremy-fields
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I was finally able to get mine into what looks like a reset mode where the backlight stays on. I disconnected the Wi-Fi RF connector from the board.
The mirror was previously on my network and would rejoin when booted. I've tried resetting it (see above). I also tried through the app, but we cancelled the service so it wouldn't even let me log in with my account since my wife was the primary owner. She has since deleted the app. I didn't try the app any further. I'm not sure if the above reboot plus Power & Volume Up combo contributed?
With the RF disconnected, it boots up, tries to find the wifi, can't and gives me the setup prompt and just stays there in it's backlit glory that I've been searching for. I had it up for 5-10 mins. I'll try longer and reply if I see different results. I tried to connect to the Mirror's setup Wi-Fi but I don't see it; disconnecting the antenna seems to have either turned it off or dropped the signal so it couldn't possibly connect again.

@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented Mar 25, 2024

Glad you figured that part out, @jeremy-fields - keep us posted on the rest of the setup. For the repo, what steps would you suggest for other users with the same panel for how to keep the backlight on?

@jeremy-fields
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I wasn’t sure how to get the Mirror into an initial setup mode without the button, so I tried a lot of Android rest options. I’m not sure if they contributed, but the key for me seems to be getting the Mirror off the network.

  1. Reset the Mirror to initial state through the app or by pressing the blue button if installed.
  2. If you cannot complete the above step and the Mirror is connected to Wi-Fi, remove it from your network by either kicking it off from the router, changing the Wi-Fi password, or removing the RF cable connecting the Wi-Fi antenna to the mainboard (RF cable removal may be irreversible).

I ran it for just over an hour yesterday and the backlight stayed on the whole time. I have a Pi and I'm currently waiting on a new Mainboard to arrive.

@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented Mar 28, 2024

@jeremy-fields thanks! Added some additional details to the instructions. Let us know how it goes when the mainboard arrives.

This was referenced Apr 1, 2024
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@jeremy-fields
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jeremy-fields commented Apr 6, 2024 •
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Build complete

I pulled out the original microphone board, usb access, video board, and speaker amplifier. I installed the new board from eBay, a Raspberry Pi 4, and some connectors. I left the camera board and lens installed to prevent an obvious hole visible from the front (could also tape it off but this was easy). I also left the Power Supply and Backlight Inverter in place.

Mounting the boards was a little bit of a challenge. I used two posts from the speaker amp and two 0.5" sticky mounts on the Pi. I had to mount the Pi to a mounting board first.

I used 4 shorter sticky mounts (0.25") for the new monitor board. The LVDS cord length and PSU cord lengths limit placement.

I added a USB-A port to the top of the mirror for the Pi. There was a USB micro there originally, but I wanted something easy to plug into so I swapped it out with this. From where my Pi was mounted, I had to run a USB extension cord to it.

Since I only have one USB-A external connection, I bought this hub to connect my keyboard and mouse to. It's nicer to be in front of the mirror when configuring it versus using VNC since the monitor is turned sideways (the mouse is hard on VNC).

I drilled a 1" hole in the power/network/connector box in the right spot to add a USB-C connection for powering the Pi. I used this bit from Home Depot. I added this part for a USB-C external port. They make USB-C and USB-A combos, which I tried, but my drill hole was too small so I just used the USB-C bulkhead connector. It's pretty full down there, so maybe not a bad choice.

I was a little worried about the boards being so close to the cover so I added some Kapton type tape. Might be overkill. I chose this which came with way more than I needed.

The new board can power the backlight if you connect the wiring per the included instructions. I did that and was able to completely remove the old board. I wrapped all the new wires near the Power Supply with 80 degree C electrical tape. The original wires had a coating over them with 80C listed on it. I originally tried to power the video board through the power plug, but wiring it direct seems to be the better choice. I did have to move some pins around to get the original power switch to work versus always being powered on (removed loopback wire on new cable, installed switch wires in its place).

The backlight is probably too bright for having this in the bedroom, so I bought a managed power outlet. I like the Kasa plugs so I bought this. You can schedule it to turn on and off at certain times.

Wi-Fi might be hard with the Pi inside, so I opted for a Ethernet connection.
I haven't sorted out audio yet. The video board has audio connectors that are smaller than anything I pulled off, so pinning has been difficult. I did rig something up at one point, and it sounded good, but the wires don't really stay connected so I removed it for now. I might come back to it later.
The new video board came with a control board, but I removed it. You'd need to run it outside somehow and I don't think you really need it.

Now to figuring out how I want the software configured.

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/PxCpFC0

New overview

Running 2

@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented Apr 6, 2024

@jeremy-fields fantastic work, so glad to see it working! I'll add a how-to section for your board with the notes you provided. A lot of folks with this model of the Mirror will benefit from this.

@minihadroncollider
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@jeremy-fields
Many thanks for this fantastic write up. I am following your guide closely, making a few little mods along the way. I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind...
Firstly, I'm curious on the repinning you had to do for hooking up the power to the board. I'm assuming this was to connect the external power switch as everything else on my board seems to match with the instructions you included. Did you have to do any other repinning?
Secondly - did you get anywhere with the audio? I'd really appreciate it if you took any pictures of the rig up you made so that I might start there and see if I can troubleshoot it.

@jeremy-fields
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There is no reason to re-pin unless you want to use that power switch. The standard loopback cable keeps the board in a switched-on mode. I wanted it, so I re-pinned it. It's probably not worth the hassle if you plan to turn it on & off some other way. I don't think any re-pinning is necessary unless you want that switch.

I stopped looking at the audio for now. I'm running magicmirror and it's full screen. There may be an audio/video module but I haven't looked for one. What I tried was to splice the old speaker cords into a longer wire with pins (leftover cords I pulled off), then force/connect that to the speaker connector on the new board. It worked, but the cables were heavy and pulled off easily since I just had them slid on. With a proper connector, it seems like an easy add. I don't know what connector to buy. There's also a headphone jack (says EARPHONE IN on the back) if you want to try to splice a cord for that.
Here's some pics: https://imgur.com/a/ltg9ejt

@i3randnew
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i3randnew commented May 5, 2024 •
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First off -- big thank you to everyone on this thread. It's been an extremely fun project to build off of, including all of the exploration upfront on the board to purchase and various setups.

@minihadroncollider I ended up with a repinned solution myself for both power and for audio that has worked nicely for the time being. I am still waiting on my smart plug to turn the Pi and display on/off, so right now I end up manually shutting down the pi and flipping off the display, but it works well and I didn't have to bore any additional holes in the Mirror casing which I was reticent to do.

For audio, the pics from @jeremy-fields are great and show exactly what the connector is, what the pins are mapped to, and generally what female connector you would need (mini micro jst). I eneded up going with repurposing two cables, splicing them to the speaker cables, and repinning the two cables (4 pin connections) to a connector from a mini micro JST 2.0 connector with 2mm/0.078 inch pitch. This ended up working nicely and get great sound without needing to solder or having the connections fall out.

For power, I went back and forth on this, but really wanted to power the pi from the main power supply in the Mirror. I went down a rabbit hole and there's still some low power warnings on my pi 5 about peripherals even after I used a multimeter to verify I was getting 5.18v at the GPIO pins on the pi, but it is working really well so far and I haven't noticed any issues in performance on both the pi or the wifi adapter (more below). To get this to work, I bought Dupont and JST connectors and a crimper to create solid connections to the pi GPIO pins, 2 5v and 2 ground connectors from the main power supply board. The board is very clear on where the cables need to be pinned for each connection.

For my board, I went with a slightly different version than what was originally discussed on the thread because I wanted USB-C / DP / HDMI for my connections vs VGA / DVI / HDMI. They're nearly identical other than the connections, so the audio pinning was similar.

For internet, I hooked up the wired ethernet from the pi to the cable / port already on the Mirror, but I really didn't want to run a wire to the ethernet port. Since the Mirror casing is solid steel, the wifi connection was going in and out depending on the day. To solve for this, since I bought the same USB extension as mentioned above and connected it to the pi and mounted it to the top of the mirror where the previous micro-usb port was mounted, I was able to buy a nano usb wifi adapter and install the drivers really easily. Wifi is now extremely reliable, fast, and you can barely tell it's there.

For software, I am running magic mirror right now as well, but am working on how to stream workouts. There are a few solutions regarding mirroring, but nothing I have found that's a straight solution for Apple Airplay from individual apps. If anyone has a pointer or advice, I would love to hear how you solved this.

Here's some pics / descriptions of my setup: https://imgur.com/a/eJUqtcT

@minihadroncollider
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@jeremy-fields Many thanks for the quick reply! I will keep the power switch, so will go about repinning that. I'm glad to hear I didn't miss anything else. My plan is to run Magic Mirror on a Pi 5 (probably overkill) in kiosk orientation. I appreciate the pictures of your successful audio connection, albeit not stable. I'm sorry if that meant opening up the Mirror again!

@i3randnew Also many thanks! I'll follow your lead for the audio. I may bust out the soldering gun and heat shrink tubes to get a nice clean install.
I have been worried about the wifi, so might just try what you've done as I don't want to pull more network cables in the wall cavity. Were the Ubuntu drivers that you posted suitable for the pi OS?
Regarding mirroring, I had assumed that installing RPiPlay on the pi 5 would allow you to use Apple Airplay. I had read that the Magic Mirror software just defaults to the Airplay while it's in progress and then back to the Magic Mirror when stopped. I haven't set up my pi yet, though - so I'm only speaking from browsing on the matter. If you've already tried this, do let me know if you find a solution. I want my Mirror to do Magic Mirror, workouts and media (both from the pi and AirPlay/Chromecast).

Once again, many thanks to everyone here. I am only able to do a little bit on this every week after hours, so my progress is slow - but the instructions, advice and tips I've gleaned here have been invaluable. I even bought a second Mirror at a heavy discount to make a second one after this one is done.

@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented May 7, 2024 via email

@i3randnew
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Ah, thanks! I took a look at uxplay as well -- but found the below which isn't quite what I am looking for. I've gotten AirPlay mirroring to work just fine using the RPiPlay, but I want streaming as the quality tends to suffer with display mirroring. I'd like to have the same streaming experience that AirPlay2 gives. I'll keep searching.

Originally supported only AirPlay Mirror protocol, now has added support for AirPlay Audio-only (Apple Lossless ALAC) streaming from current iOS/iPadOS clients. There is no support for Airplay2 video-streaming protocol, and none is planned.

@jeremy-fields
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Thanks for the audio connector @i3randnew. The build pics are cool to see too! I love the usb-wifi idea, simple and brilliant. I've been struggling with what to do if I moved mine from the location with wired network. I did find a person who solders a WiFi RF cable connector onto a Raspberry Pi. I bought one, but I'd need to move my pi to the top of the mirror where the old board had it's wifi "window".

For my USB power passthrough on the bottom, I removed the power sub-piece steel section and drilled it by itself. I didn't want to drill anything in the main structure with the monitor in it (no vibrations there). Wasn't too hard to remove and then drilling was easier, although I used a drill press which made it not scary - overkill I guess.

@minihadroncollider I had a lot of pictures, I just posted some old ones. Unrelated, I did open it up this weekend. My Pi4 was running a little hot at times. It got over 70C a couple times when I was messing with updating the magicmirror configs over and over. It functioned ok but worried me some so I added a fan and heat sink. It's never over 51C now without the fan even kicking on; the fan is programmed to come at 60C. I bought this fan from Amazon.

Fan and power panel pics https://imgur.com/a/6zGZNGR

@cobra85ec
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Do this board work with LTI400HN01

@minihadroncollider
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@i3randnew - actually, I did a little research and it seems pretty self-explanatory in the end. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see if I can get it working.

@rooibos-hommes rooibos-hommes mentioned this issue Jul 24, 2024
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@toxict0ast
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Great work everyone! I'm waiting on all my parts to come in. Excited to upgrade my current smart mirror setup with this mirror. I got one for 100$ on FB marketplace.

I'm having some issues getting account switched over to me to do the factory reset. Is it really necessary?

@minihadroncollider do you have a photo of where you connected the 5v power for the pi? I understand the power inputs on the GPIO side, but not where to connect it on the main board.

@minihadroncollider
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minihadroncollider commented Aug 11, 2024 •
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I meant to do this a month ago, but I was hit by a hurricane and have then been out of town. In any case, here are some pictures and descriptions of my set up: https://imgur.com/a/lZcJO51

@jeremy-fields and @i3randnew - you will see I have used your guidance. Thank you so much - I could not have done this without your posts.

@toxict0ast - hopefully this give you what you need to power the Raspberry Pi. I have included a good guide for the pins that was helpful for me. The factory reset is necessary for the TV backlight to stay on permanently - I would try your best to do this before you start.

The only problems I'm having right now are:

  1. I get low power warnings, just like @i3randnew mentioned - but they don't seem to affect anything, so I just ignore them.
  2. I haven't worked out a way to get the Pi to default to the external wifi dongle each time it's turned on.

Things I want to work on now it's done:

  1. Setting up the MagicMirror software with some good and useful modules
  2. Working out how to shut the Pi down quickly before I press the switch at the bottom of the Studio Mirror
  3. Adding AirPlay functionality so that a iPhone can stream to the Mirror
  4. Seeing if I can get a presence sensor working with the screen to turn it on and off
  5. Connecting a Google TV dongle for watching shows, but with vertical orientation

@toxict0ast
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Amazing work @minihadroncollider ! Thank you very much, those photos help so much.

Sadly it seems there isn't a way for me to get the account switched to me for a factory reset. I will still try this project, but it doesn't sound hopeful. I have all the parts delivered this week for some testing.

@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented Aug 11, 2024

@minihadroncollider great update! You've documented this well. For Airplay, I've been a fan of uxplay.

Can Google TV rotate orientation?

@toxict0ast
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I finished the project!
I just wanted to report back a few things.

  1. It doesn't seem to matter that I didn't do a factory reset on the 2nd hand mirror. It was never connected to my network also. The screen has been on a solid 24 hours.

  2. I was able to power the Pi from just one 5v positive, and 1 ground pin. I used the other +5volt to power my fan, because i'm using a pi4, and it doesnt have dedicated pins for fans.

Thanks for all the help on these projects. The pictures posted were SO MUCH help. Yall are awesome and I love this mirror.

@tung256
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tung256 commented Aug 27, 2024

@i3randnew could you please take a look at my post here #15
i took closeup shots because your photos and descriptions were not clear. thanks a lot for your time and help!

@tung256
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tung256 commented Aug 29, 2024

@toxict0ast
this is the board i got https://www.ebay.com/itm/235438526466?var=535565344805

the NEW and OLD video cables dont match, can i just plug the new cable in?
image

how are you powering up the new board? the old board has 4 wires for power via G,G,24,24

for backlighting, can i plug NEW1 into the panel? do i have to change any pins?
image

@jeremy-fields
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Did it come with instructions? The board I ordered did. They are in the bottom two images here.
It was similar for me. Less cables for LVDS (video). Less cables going into the backlight driver. And those backlight cables were split into two feeds. Like yours, new1 went into the backlight board, and new2 and new3 went into the power supply, although there was a 4th piece that connected to the control board I think (maybe yours is connected there already?). I didn't need to re-pin anything, although that loop there is where you could repin the switch to. I talk about that here and here. The second link has good pictures.

@jeremy-fields jeremy-fields mentioned this issue Aug 29, 2024
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@tung256
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tung256 commented Aug 29, 2024 •
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@jeremy-fields mine did came with manual but very blurry. your manual in the last 2 images in the link is basically identical to mine! this is good. your 2nd link does have very good photos BUT some images i cannot zoom and enlarge. when i click, it shows up as "private." please change when you can as these photos are very crucial. ok, nevermind, your imgur links have same photos so im good now.

ok. so to confirm...i power the backlight using the new1. new2 and new3 actually goes to the Mirror's Power Supply board, correct?
new board does indeed already have 4th piece power cable already connected to the board. in manual, it is labeled CN5. all this time, i was trying to figure out how you powered up the new controller using the old power connections (ground, ground, 24, 24)

thanks so much for confirming everything.

@jeremy-fields
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I'm not sure about the pictures not showing. I logged out of github and they still work for me. The URL for the images has private-user-images in it the link, but it still works.
The Imgur link has pictures as well. You can right click those and "view image" to see the full size. https://imgur.com/a/ztgrLKG
I think you should have one part of the cable connected to the new board, two cables connected to the power supply, and the other to the backlight board. Then you have the LVDS cable. You should be able to message the seller and get a better image, but if you compare the pictures from our two ebay links, they look pretty similar.
If you're unsure on this, maybe ask a local person for help doublechecking connections and going over whatever documents you can get before powering it on.

@tung256
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tung256 commented Aug 29, 2024

@jeremy-fields happy to say i got the display working thanks to you!
now onto getting the sound working. it seems i was overthinking or something. is connecting sound this simple???
image

just take the 2 wires from each speaker and connect directly to the new board? that's the impression i get from @i3randnew photos.

looks like we dont need this mic board at all
image

i believe this is the amplifier right?
image

but the new board has amplification built in?

if my thinking is wrong, could you clarify with a schematics?

@jeremy-fields
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Yes, that is a mic board and it's not needed now.
You're right about the audio cables. @i3randnew is talking about the connecters here. I wired mine once to test it. I used the right wires but wrong connectors. It worked but the cables wouldn't stay on. @i3randnew's post refers to the right connectors.
For the amp, that is it in the picture I believe. I wasn't sure how to wire it so I just plugged in the speakers. They worked. They would probably be louder with the amp. Not sure how loud or if you'd want the control board to adjust volume.

@tung256
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tung256 commented Aug 30, 2024

@jeremy-fields is the amp board 5,12, or 24v? i forgot. i unplugged the excess cable without noticing...
for now, i soldered the 4 speaker cables directly into the new board's L+ L- R+ R-.
to use the amp with the new board, i believe this is the connection here
image

white=left
black= ground
red= right.
will test this theory later

thanks for all your help!

@jeremy-fields
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I think I measured it at 12V https://imgur.com/dTp10rZ
Mine was tied to a 12V input on the old mainboard. I also think my wire colors were swapped too. Power for plus was on plus, and negative on negative, but red and black wire colors were swapped. Something to watch for.

@merjo1515
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@jeremy-fields I also have a Samsung but my Model is different. Will your instructions work for me? I'm not super tech savvy so I am hoping I can do this.
LTI400HN017QJG06A37G

@jeremy-fields
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@merjo1515 I'm not sure. There may be some mention of Samsung in the other issues attached to this repo.

@merjo1515
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@merjo1515 I'm not sure. There may be some mention of Samsung in the other issues attached to this repo.

Wasn't yours a Samsung mirror?

@tung256
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tung256 commented Sep 2, 2024

@jeremy-fields i just tried my theory as seen here and saw smoke came out, now my new controller board is dead. ouch.
if anyone figured out how to use the amp, kindly let me know.

image

@jeremy-fields
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jeremy-fields commented Sep 3, 2024 •
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Oh no!
I have some pictures of a red, white, and black cable coming from the mic board to that amp. I don't have an image of the back of the mic board. I have a picture of the back of the amp board, but it's not labeled. Not where my connection was at least. Mine was not connected where you are showing; your connection is labeled and has a term PBTL that should be looked into.

IMG_1780
IMG_1763
IMG_1752
IMG_2029

@tung256
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tung256 commented Sep 3, 2024 •
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i dont want to burn another controller board via trial and error. might as well buy a cheap amp with full control for volume, bass, and treble knobs. nice that this takes 12v dc input too!

i still cant find the command for the rpi4 to kill the HDMI signal though. the idea is to disable HDMI output for the LCD panel to turn off. if motion is detected then issue another command line to turn on the HDMI thereby turning the LCD back on. is everyone using a smart plug to turn the mirror On/Off?
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Amplifier-Blue-Tooth-Channels-Speakers/dp/B0BFW8HSLB/
image

@minihadroncollider
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@minihadroncollider great update! You've documented this well. For Airplay, I've been a fan of uxplay.

Can Google TV rotate orientation?

@olm3ca I'm trying out uxplay which works pretty well. I haven't worked out how to get it to load automatically at start-up though. Have you had any success with this?

As for Google TV, I believe you can side load an app which will rotate the orientation

@minihadroncollider
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@tung256
Let me know how you get on with the amp. I found that although my speakers are working fne when connected directly, the volume is lower than I would like.

@olm3ca
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olm3ca commented Sep 9, 2024

@minihadroncollider it works on boot every time, I didn't have to configure anything. In your case, probably a startup script you could add...

@tung256
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tung256 commented Oct 5, 2024

@minihadroncollider i removed the red amplifier board. install another ampli that has bluetooth, usb, and aux. the rpi connects to my Logi Media Server to access the music that way. all explained in this video https://youtu.be/vJqoqVfDUQA

@minihadroncollider
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@tung256 Incredible job! And an exhaustive video explainer that must have taken some time. How has it been working for you since?

@pedropm32
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@olm3ca @avitascmor Thanks you so much! Instructions were so easy to follow.

I ordered the board, replaced it, and now it works perfectly. I just left an HDMI out so I can connect anything I want. Currently, I'm using a Mac Mini, haha...

@tung256
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tung256 commented Nov 2, 2024

@minihadroncollider it's working great so far. i just installed a Solid State Relay since that video. that way, when the TV auto turn On, i dont hear that annoying click sound from the relay and another click when TV goes Off. cant believe SSR exists. seems nobody cares about it to explain on youtube so i will do that on another video.
now, i still cant find an Android player that supports portrait mode. if you know, please let me know too

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